Jan
11
Halt!
Filed under Paris/London 2008
This trip of mine is coming to a halt pretty soon. Probably less ceremoniously than the Tower of London guards when they were commanded to halt tonight. Our last hurrah in this city was to attend the Ceremony of the Keys this evening in which the Tower is locked up for the night as it has been done continuously for over 700 years. Attendance is free to this event, but one must write to the Tower, at least two months before your requested date, and ask for tickets. I booked my flight and found out about this ceremony less than two months ago, but I sent my letter nonetheless. About 10 days later, I received mail from England with both a rejection letter and welcome letter. On the rejection letter was written, “I enjoyed your letter so much I have enclosed your tickets. You owe me a pint. -Yeoman Warder”
Attendees are asked to remain silent during the actual ceremony, when the key keeper is escorted by four soldiers (in those funny, tall hats) to the front gate to lock up. When they march back, a fifth soldier, who has remained behind says “Halt! Who goes there?” “The keys.” “Whose keys?” “Queen Elizabeth’s keys.” “Queen Elizabeth’s keys may pass.” Although I couldn’t see the soldiers during their march away from the crowd, toward the front gate, I enjoyed hearing their loud shoes click in time against the pavement.
Going backward in time, my morning began at the British Museum. What a grand place containing so many worldly artifacts—the Rosetta Stone, wonderfully preserved mummies and mummy cats, the Parthenon’s Elgin Marbles. China’s Terracotta Warriors are temporarily exhibit there, but I passed on paying for it. Although the U.S. dollar is devalued quite steeply here, compared to even its value to the euro, I have actually spent less money in London. I credit that toward all of the free museums.
To kill time this afternoon, I took a second (free) visit to the National Gallery and joined the 14:30, free, one-hour tour of some highlight paintings. Thankfully, each tour is different, so I learned about some new paintings compared to the tour I took a couple of days ago. Holbein’s “The Ambassadors” is quite fascinating; the painting is full of possible allusions.
After, I hopped on a bus and met Noelle at restaurant Richoux for a 16:00 High Tea. We each enjoyed tea with sugar and milk (quite lovely!), different finger sandwiches, baby scones with clotted cream (YUM), and a dense fruit/spice cake. Coming in at $30 a piece, this outing served as our last meal for the day. And of course, I held out my pinkie.
Today’s events rounded out my last day on this fabulous trip. And as our last London view, we walked over to the pier, after the Ceremony, to take in Tower Bridge in its full nighttime glow.
Thanks for a great ride. Have a safe journey home. Love you.